Here we are again in "the villa," Villa Santa Lucia, and again, in the rain. We have learned over the past week why so many homes have wood stoves in this area and why much of the people's time is spent around the stove drinking mate. Even with rain almost everyday, we had the loveliest week with Meli, Tito, grandma Nora, and little 2 year old Antonia just over the cuesta in Alto Palena. Not to mention the goats, cows, chickens, pigs, sheep, cats, bees, dogs, and almost all with babies.
We arrived to the warm stove of Meli and Tito after our longest day on the bikes - 60km, half of which was our ascent into the Andes, and all of which was on dirt roads. It was actually one of our smoothest days as well, with no need to stop for repairs and really pleasant weather all day.
Afterwards, we happily spent the week learning about a life disconnected from many luxuries. The house, which they built themselves, had no light, aside from an LED solar powered light, low-flow water from a nearby stream, and a wood stove for cooking, warming water for the bucket-shower, and warming our bodies after working outside. And we were outside whenever the sun came through!
The mama goats were our company for the mornings on the farm. We milked many of the "lecheras" or milking goats and yielded a hearty 4 litres at least. Right now, not having a great way to preserve the milk besides in delicious custards and flans, most of the milk went to the baby cow, Dominga, whose mother drown in the nearby river, and to the sheep and goats without mothers. A little was spared for the three kittens and Antonia to enjoy. This mentality of giving all they you have pervaded all parts of life with this family, and for this we were so thankful and full after our time together.
The rest of the day rotated between mate sessions indoors, planting and watering in the greenhouse, collecting rich soil from Tito's dad's campo nearby and then spreading the mixture of healthy soil and animal poo in the every growing home garden and in the greenhouse.
The duo were also very kind in showing us the systems on their property, like water collection, bee hives, building projects underway, and many of the ideas they had for once they had hydro-powered light. We also learned and played a lot with their like-minded friends, Ricardo and Paz, with their two little ones, Antu and Maya. We visited their home one day for a morning of mate drinking, a huge lunch of fresh pork, and an afternoon of rock climbing on the walls their have set up on the property.
Both pairs lived a very courageous and happy farm life and provided us with so much kindness and great conversation that made the challenging route detour East to Palena more than worth the kilometres on some loose first roads.
Still, during this time the bikes only rested! Now we are back in the saddle. We did opt for the bus today (at 6am!) back those 60kms because of some pretty heavy rain but we have used the day to rest, talk with family, and organise the detours and details of our forward movement towards Coyhaique. There will be some more volcano hikes, a visit to the best pastry shop in Puerto Cisnes, the Questa Moraga, and whatever way we find to celebrate Thanksgiving!
We are happy and full and staying dry despite Patagonia's rainy fury! Time is flying by and we are cherishing it x
No comments:
Post a Comment